Dim Dim Sum Brings a Great Show of Cantonese Goodies to Windermere | Restaurant review | Orlando
Windermere’s Dim Sum might look like Awkwafina’s next Comedy Central, but in reality, it’s a car that Isleworth is set to feel is getting a heavy dose of culture. You won’t find the same customers you see at Dim Sum Stallwarts as Peter’s Kitchen, KaiKai, Lam’s Garden, Ming’s Bistro or Chuan Lu Garden, or you might see them at the recently closed Chan’s Chinese Cuisine, but you might get a glimpse of its former chef, Tony Young . Young ran Chan’s Kitchen for nearly a quarter of a century until it closed a year ago. Now it’s on an easy street, offering a relatively brief and focused 40-item list of the greatest dim sum hits.
But, come on, no chicken feet? What’s a dim sum without that gentle bone-and-collagen soak? I tell you, Windermere, whoa! Ask for item 41 on the menu to be chicken feet! Scream it from the rooftops covered with mud! Scream from the Bentley Continental GTC Convertible! Then drop your black Amex card after enjoying some small Cantonese dishes (not served from a cart, unfortunately) at Dim Sum’s Dim Sum is barely dim, but is actually a pretty bright border.
“This was Spoleto’s Italian cuisine,” my dining companion notes. He’s right. We couldn’t help but notice that much of the interior, straight down (or up) even pan art hanging from the ceiling, remained. The prices were noticeable too, at least for us. Now, they likely won’t raise any eyebrows among those who live in the neighborhood, but a gloomy summer veteran might refuse to spend $6.50 for three shrimp-and-pork dumplings or Xiao Long Bao. More so given the cheesy funk of the former and the cuteness of the latter. While there are no such failures in a bowl of chopped cucumber and garlic, this tonic side does come in at $5.50. If you get it, cut in a piece or two after cutting down on some heavy fare, like a fun beef chowder ($9.95) with a great wok essence, or some sparkling, sparkling cut of roast duck ($9.95).
Always check my dim sum dinner card for steamed rice rolls. Its delicate, slippery tubular shell can test a chef’s strength (and the ingenuity of a chopstick user). But the rolls here not only lacked that eye-catching transparency, the folding technology also seemed rushed. The deep puddle of sweet soy sauce in which they just sat precipitated their deconstructing qualities. Compared to the ones I enjoyed just three weeks ago at a kookily called Providence 9 in Markham, Ontario, they paled.
On the other hand, the fried sesame balls ($5.50) were the soft, chewy, greasy balls they were meant to be. They’re a little sweet, too, so if you don’t like mixing sweet and savory dim sum items, just switch to fried turnip buns ($5.50) or steamed pork dumplings and save the balls for later.
Other drool-worthy areas, however, are the gorgeous black gold lava cake ($5.50) with their pungent core, and the Mexican custard cake ($5.50), a Hong Kong staple. If you are wondering what is “Mexican” about it, this dessert cake was designed in Mexican style concha by a couple who returned to Hong Kong after being expelled from Mexico. Well, that sounds like another vehicle for Awkwafina. Either way, ask for e bitche. We devoured them, and you probably will, too.
Yes, they are on the pricier side, but hey, even in this neighborhood, you don’t need to be insanely rich to enjoy Asian food.